My poor, neglected blog…I went on vacation, came back and forgot that I really enjoy working on this blog- similar to the way I sometimes forget that I enjoy being outside my apartment, or eating vegetables. Then I log on/leave the house/eat a pear…and think, This is AWESOME! I should do this ALL THE TIME!
Moving on.
Last Friday, the thoroughly amazing organization where I volunteer here in Madrid held an event that re-energized and inspired me. Setem does international solidarity and fair trade work, and plays a big role in the European Clean Clothes Campaign. The project I am helping out with currently reaches out to Spanish fashion design students to educate them about the abuses of the fashion industry and provide them with options in fair trade production and environmentally aware materials. The idea is to change the industry starting with the next generation of designers, and this is basically the first campaign of its kind in Spain. While other European countries (especially the UK) have a higher awareness about sweatshops, fair trade and sustainability in fashion, these issues are just beginning to enter the discourse here.
The event consisted of two simultaneous workshops, one for fashion professors and one for students. For me, the highlight of the student workshop was getting to talk with Nieves Ruíz, the Spanish designer behind fair trade line Bibico. Bibico is made up of simple, gorgeous pieces made in collectives in India and Nepal.
Ruíz talked about choosing to leave the mainstream design world (she used to work for Zara), and seeking out ethical manufacturing alternatives for her own line. Hearing her stories about staying with collective worker families and work through the design process with them was fascinating, and made me feel like for people who are motivated enough to find them, there are radically different and exciting options.
In the states, I don’t have a CD player in my car, just a tape deck. I’ve only got three cassete kicking around in there, and one of them is Patti Smith’s Peace and Noise.
Can we talk about how amazing she is? Can you believe she is 63 and still so badass? I can’t even wrap my mind around it. If I could posess maybe 0.00001% of her level of cool, all the cells in my body would probably explode. It would just be too much.
So…Spaniards think it best to celebrate Easter like this:
No, those aren’t Klansmen, just observant Catholics during a Semana Santa (Holy Week) procession. Basically, they wear these traditional (and to me, terrifying) hooded outfits, carry huge statues of Jesus on their shoulders through the streets, and occasionally, self-flagellate.
While I certainly admit that these folks know much much more than I about being Catholic…I just have a strong preference for the other kind of Easter- the one with the bunnies, and the pastel colors, and all things cute and made of chocolate.
Look at the amazing handmade easter-y loot on Etsy right now….
Have you heard of Kickstarter.com? It’s this website project where anyone can propose a project (generally of the creative or activist variety), and set a minimum for the amount of funding they would need to do it, as well as a deadline for the dough. They make a video appeal, and then kind-hearted strangers make donations (usually getting some kind of reward, everything from postcards to private yoga classes)- if the project is fully funded in time, you get the money and go forth, and if not, you’re off the hook. Pretty neat.
The Noon Design Studio project has been is looking for money to create the first natural dye production house in the US- and now it’s been fully funded to the tune of over $4,000!
“Natural dye has a long and rich history stemming from almost every culture. It is important because it utilizes naturally occurring materials to create color without the use of chemicals or salt. A naturally dyed organic textile is non-toxic and safe for everyone. At the end of its life, it can biodegrade back into the soil without hurting the earth.”
It’s shaping up to be a wet and gloomy spring here in Madrid, and today I caved in and bought a made-god-knows-where umbrella in the metro, out of sheer soggy desperation.
When it inevitably falls apart, I will find a couple of its sad umbrella cousins (easily scavenged sticking out of trash cans all over the city), and make this skirt. Or this one! My umbrella’s black, so I’d pick a contrasting color, or maybe a plaid (ooo fancy!).
Even though Ikea was listed in the International Labor Rights Forum’s 2010 Hall of Shame, I would still probably make and wear this upcycled raincoat.
Being abroad means I am usually a bit behind on news from the US. I was so disappointed today to learn that No Sweat has shut down their retail business. Up until recently, No Sweat was an awesome Massachusetts-based company making sneakers and casual clothes in trade union certified factories around the world.
I started buying sneakers from them upon learning about Nike’s purchase of Converse- fair trade style for the same price. Plus they had sweet Rose the Riveter graphics!
Ugh- so sad to hear about such a great company going under. (Their wholesale branch still exists, so if you need ethical shirts in bulk, check it out).
The upside is that in reading about No Sweat’s closing I learned about the Autonomie Project. Another Boston-based company, they have a product line similar to No Sweat- organic, sweatshop-free and vegan shoes and tees. While I haven’t been able to see the goods in person, the shoes look well-made and the printed shirts have cool graphics. I especially like the Bikefish Tee and the All Black Low Top Sneakers…and the prices are reasonable.
Next time you need to replace your Converse, consider going the fair trade route!
There’s a benefit sale on at Gilt today- proceeds to to rebuilding Haiti. I’m a little suspicious of the whole “shop for a cause” concept, but if you are planning to do some shopping anyway (particularly for FEED totes or Tom’s Shoes), you might as well go for it!
Sad story: when I was packing to move to Madrid, I left a Very Important Dress at my mom’s house. I made it last year of a lovely cornflower blue jersey printed with big Marimekko-inspired flowers, with this Built by Wendy pattern:
(I used the dress pattern on the right. So sweet).
Built By Wendy is the creation of Wendy Mullins. Nowadays, in addition to its pattern offerings, it’s all gorgeous silk blouses and fancy-pants* shift dresses, but I have been in love with with BBW since back in the day when it was mainly custom guitar straps and To Kill a Mockingbird t-shirts.
This one depicts Scout in the ham costume!! Sweat-shop free! So amazing it is almost too much! Why don’t I own this yet??
Moving on-
The first two sewing guides (complete with various patterns and tips) were Sew U, a general intro to pattern sewing, and Home Stretch, a guide to sewing with stretch fabrics (which is the only way to go, as far as I’m concerned). Now they’ve released Built By Wendy Dresses, and I can’t wait to get my hands on a copy (damn you, international shipping fees!).
This post about ethical fashion “jargon-busting” calendars reminded me to poke around the Made-By site.
“MADE-BY is an independent consumer label for fashion companies who continuously improve and are transparent about the social, economic and ecological conditions throughout the whole supply chain of their collections.”
Basically, they work with different companies and suppliers to improve working conditions and increase overall sustainability. They also give consumers a tip on how to buy ethically-Look for their little, blue, adorably off-kilter “made-by” button.
Adding to the awesome, they will send you a button of your own for free (complete with instructions on how to sew it on- if you don’t know how to sew a button, come ON! Get on this!). I was thinking of making mine into a little brooch…
At New York Fashion Week, John Patrick showed a collection of tailored, classic jackets, shorts and little dresses with a 60’s-ish aesthetic, all topped with messy beehives.
The leather in the collection is vegetable-tanned and the silk digitally printed (which apparently is a less toxic method), but for me the real standout fabric is the Harris Tweed!
According to the Harris Tweed Authority, this is “cloth that has been handwoven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their homes, using pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.” Apparently, this is the definition that has been laid out in the 1993 Harris Tweed Act of Parliament (!!!). Oh, how I love to imagine a judge considering these lovely, woolen fabrics! If I had known that somewhere lawyers were hard at work protecting the Harris Tweed name from imposters, I might have made my mother happy and re-considered law school.
Moving on…visit the Harris Tweed page for more info, or better yet, some cozy-looking downloads.
pics via 
